Decorative Cosmetics Development

A.Y. 2023/2024
6
Max ECTS
64
Overall hours
SSD
CHIM/09
Language
English
Learning objectives
The course is intended for students who have attended courses on ingredients and physiology/biochemistry of the skin/skin annexes and can be introduced to relevant application into decorative cosmetics. The course aims at providing the students with an overview on the main classes of decorative cosmetics. In this respect, great attention would be paid towards formulation development, manufacturing aspects and physio-technological properties of the resulting products, which may impact on their overall quality and on the user experience.
During the laboratory experiences, methodologies for the physico-technological characterization of the cosmetic ingredients and for evaluating the quality of final products will be provided. Moreover, students will approach small-scale manufacturing of selected decorative cosmetics.
Expected learning outcomes
At the end of the course, students will have acquired the basis for the formulation of the main categories of make-up products (e.g. lipsticks, eye shadows, powders, base dyes, hair dyes), of the manufacturing processes they are involved and the challenges related to control, packaging and stability aspects. They will be able to understand the formulation role of each ingredient from the label of decorative cosmetics and hypothesizing the relevant production process.
Single course

This course can be attended as a single course.

Course syllabus and organization

Single session

Responsible
Lesson period
Second semester
Course syllabus
- Overview and market prevalence of the different categories of cosmetic products and the relevant types of formulations
- Introduction to color cosmetics and color theory; use of pigments in cosmetic formulations and relevant evaluation methods (i.e. color measurement and pigment testing)
- Formulation and manufacturing aspects of the main product categories relevant to color cosmetics:
- powder and compacts (e.g. foundation, eyeshadow, blush, face powder)
- extrudates (e.g. eyeshadow)
- poured products (e.g. foundation, chapstick, lipstick)
- emulsions (e.g. lip gloss, mascara, foundation, eyeliner)
- Critical analysis of decorative cosmetics
- Evaluation of the performance of decorative cosmetics

Laboratory experiences - Preparation of selected cosmetic products (e.g. face powder, chapstick, lipstick, foundation) and relevant characterization.
Prerequisites for admission
In order to depply acquire the contents of the course and to apply them critically, basic knowledge of organic and inorganic chemistry, and of the ingredients of cosmetic products is required. Moreover, a background on the physiology as well as biochemistry of skin/ skin annexes and the main membranes on which cosmetic products are intended to be applied would be highly beneficial.
In order to undertake the laboratory experiences profitably and safely, a basic ability and knowledge of the risks associated with handling chemicals is required. Therefore, attendance of the laboratory experiences related to the scheduled courses in the first semester represents a prerequisite for admission to experimental activity.
Teaching methods
Lectures (mainly in presence) with the support of slides as well as digital instruments, and self-verification activities to be carried out online and/or offline. Seminars given by experts in the field to bring students closer to the reality of work/production.
Individual laboratory experiences, entailing the drafting of a final report.
Teaching Resources
Lesson slides and suggested reference textbooks available at the teacher's Ariel website.
Recent bibliographic material provided by the lecturer or found by the students through databases.
Assessment methods and Criteria
Understanding/learning of the topics taught during the course will be assessed through written ongoing (i.e. performed during the lessons' time) tests and through a final one entailing both closed- and open-ended questions on different topics. An oral interview may also be necessary to clarify the contents of the written tests and to help improve the final grade.
Laboratory experiences' report is considered part of the final exam, comprising 30% of the final evaluation.
CHIM/09 - PHARMACEUTICAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL APPLICATIONS OF CHEMISTRY - University credits: 6
Single bench laboratory practical: 32 hours
Lessons: 32 hours