Sport Climbing
A.Y. 2023/2024
Learning objectives
The course provides a theoretical-practical approach to the different types of sports climbing (lead, bouldering, speed). The technical, physiological, and didactic components, norms, and procedures specific to each type of sports climbing for climbing in safety are covered.
Expected learning outcomes
Students will acquire skills in observation and interpretation of techniques specific to each type of climbing; ability to execute and demonstrate techniques; ability to organize preparatory lessons for learning basic skills for beginners; knowledge of regulations and safety issues.
Lesson period: Activity scheduled over several sessions (see Course syllabus and organization section for more detailed information).
Assessment methods: Esame
Assessment result: voto verbalizzato in trentesimi
Single course
This course can be attended as a single course.
Course syllabus and organization
gruppo 1
Responsible
Lesson period
First semester
Course syllabus
Introduction
- Italian Climbing Federation (Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana, FASI): structure and mission
- Disciplines of sport climbing (lead, bouldering, speed)
Theoretical aspects
. Historical overview: from exploratory alpinism to the beginning of sports climbing
. Definition of the performance model for sports climbing: physiological aspects
. Elements of training and general/specific physical preparation for sports climbing
. Accident and injury prevention
Practical aspects
. Large and small gear: move from the horizontal to the vertical plane. Exercises, translocations, games with the gear normally available in school gyms
. Basic motor patterns of climbing. Didactics of the fundamental aspects: frontal positions, variants on the frontal positions, lateral positions, dynamic movements
. Structures, equipment and gear. Aspects of safety and management of different forms of climbing (lead and top-rope)
. Bouldering: techniques of movement and didactic aspects
. Lead climber: techniques as lead and top-rope climbing and didactic aspects
. Speed: techniques of speed climbing and didactic aspects
- Italian Climbing Federation (Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana, FASI): structure and mission
- Disciplines of sport climbing (lead, bouldering, speed)
Theoretical aspects
. Historical overview: from exploratory alpinism to the beginning of sports climbing
. Definition of the performance model for sports climbing: physiological aspects
. Elements of training and general/specific physical preparation for sports climbing
. Accident and injury prevention
Practical aspects
. Large and small gear: move from the horizontal to the vertical plane. Exercises, translocations, games with the gear normally available in school gyms
. Basic motor patterns of climbing. Didactics of the fundamental aspects: frontal positions, variants on the frontal positions, lateral positions, dynamic movements
. Structures, equipment and gear. Aspects of safety and management of different forms of climbing (lead and top-rope)
. Bouldering: techniques of movement and didactic aspects
. Lead climber: techniques as lead and top-rope climbing and didactic aspects
. Speed: techniques of speed climbing and didactic aspects
Prerequisites for admission
No previous knowledge or experience necessary
Teaching methods
The course is given via frontal lectures and practical exercise sessions. During the exercises, students will practice exercises graded to their ability.
Teaching Resources
- Lecture notes, documents and materials provided by the teacher
- Dall'arrampicare all'arrampicata. N.Bressa, B.Capretta, G.P. Denicu.Editore: Calzetti Mariucci, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.1: Arrampicata e allenamento. Capacità organiche di base. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.2: Arrampicata e allenamento. Preparazione fisica e psicologica. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.3: Tecniche e sicurezza. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Guida completa all'arrampicata su roccia. C.Luebben. Editore: Hoepli, 2008
SITOGRAFIA
Reference material
Websites
-https://www.federclimb.it/
-http://ifsc-climbing.org
- Dall'arrampicare all'arrampicata. N.Bressa, B.Capretta, G.P. Denicu.Editore: Calzetti Mariucci, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.1: Arrampicata e allenamento. Capacità organiche di base. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.2: Arrampicata e allenamento. Preparazione fisica e psicologica. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.3: Tecniche e sicurezza. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Guida completa all'arrampicata su roccia. C.Luebben. Editore: Hoepli, 2008
SITOGRAFIA
Reference material
Websites
-https://www.federclimb.it/
-http://ifsc-climbing.org
Assessment methods and Criteria
The final exam is composed of a practical assessment and a written part in which students demonstrate their ability to organize and manage a sports climb activity with schoolchildren safely. In detail, the practical part will include:
- Bouldering problem solution on an artificial structure at a difficulty graded to the student's ability by applying the different climbing techniques learned on the course
- Climb a lead route at a difficulty graded to the student's ability in a leading style, demonstrating the vertical climbing techniques learned on the course, managing safety and protection (clipping the rope through the anchors, relationship with the rope, relationship with the belayer)
- Evaluation of ability to ensure the safety of climbers that climb in leading and top-rope modalities
The written part is composed of multiple-choice and open questions on the practical and theoretical topics covered during the course. The evaluation is expressed as 30/30 points based on the grades obtained in the practical trials and the result of the written exam part.
- Bouldering problem solution on an artificial structure at a difficulty graded to the student's ability by applying the different climbing techniques learned on the course
- Climb a lead route at a difficulty graded to the student's ability in a leading style, demonstrating the vertical climbing techniques learned on the course, managing safety and protection (clipping the rope through the anchors, relationship with the rope, relationship with the belayer)
- Evaluation of ability to ensure the safety of climbers that climb in leading and top-rope modalities
The written part is composed of multiple-choice and open questions on the practical and theoretical topics covered during the course. The evaluation is expressed as 30/30 points based on the grades obtained in the practical trials and the result of the written exam part.
M-EDF/02 - SPORT SCIENCES AND METHODOLOGY - University credits: 6
Lessons: 42 hours
Professor:
Limonta Eloisa Maria Guglielmina
gruppo 2
Responsible
Lesson period
Second semester
Course syllabus
Introduction
- Italian Climbing Federation (Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana, FASI): structure and mission
- Disciplines of sport climbing (lead, bouldering, speed)
Theoretical aspects
. Historical overview: from exploratory alpinism to the beginning of sports climbing
. Definition of the performance model for sports climbing: physiological aspects
. Elements of training and general/specific physical preparation for sports climbing
. Accident and injury prevention
Practical aspects
. Large and small gear: move from the horizontal to the vertical plane. Exercises, translocations, games with the gear normally available in school gyms
. Basic motor patterns of climbing. Didactics of the fundamental aspects: frontal positions, variants on the frontal positions, lateral positions, dynamic movements
. Structures, equipment and gear. Aspects of safety and management of different forms of climbing (lead and top-rope)
. Bouldering: techniques of movement and didactic aspects
. Lead climber: techniques as lead and top-rope climbing and didactic aspects
. Speed: techniques of speed climbing and didactic aspects
- Italian Climbing Federation (Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana, FASI): structure and mission
- Disciplines of sport climbing (lead, bouldering, speed)
Theoretical aspects
. Historical overview: from exploratory alpinism to the beginning of sports climbing
. Definition of the performance model for sports climbing: physiological aspects
. Elements of training and general/specific physical preparation for sports climbing
. Accident and injury prevention
Practical aspects
. Large and small gear: move from the horizontal to the vertical plane. Exercises, translocations, games with the gear normally available in school gyms
. Basic motor patterns of climbing. Didactics of the fundamental aspects: frontal positions, variants on the frontal positions, lateral positions, dynamic movements
. Structures, equipment and gear. Aspects of safety and management of different forms of climbing (lead and top-rope)
. Bouldering: techniques of movement and didactic aspects
. Lead climber: techniques as lead and top-rope climbing and didactic aspects
. Speed: techniques of speed climbing and didactic aspects
Prerequisites for admission
No previous knowledge or experience necessary
Teaching methods
The course is given via frontal lectures and practical exercise sessions. During the exercises, students will practice exercises graded to their ability.
Teaching Resources
- Lecture notes, documents and materials provided by the teacher
- Dall'arrampicare all'arrampicata. N.Bressa, B.Capretta, G.P. Denicu.Editore: Calzetti Mariucci, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.1: Arrampicata e allenamento. Capacità organiche di base. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.2: Arrampicata e allenamento. Preparazione fisica e psicologica. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.3: Tecniche e sicurezza. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Guida completa all'arrampicata su roccia. C.Luebben. Editore: Hoepli, 2008
SITOGRAFIA
Reference material
Websites
-https://www.federclimb.it/
-http://ifsc-climbing.org
- Dall'arrampicare all'arrampicata. N.Bressa, B.Capretta, G.P. Denicu.Editore: Calzetti Mariucci, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.1: Arrampicata e allenamento. Capacità organiche di base. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.2: Arrampicata e allenamento. Preparazione fisica e psicologica. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.3: Tecniche e sicurezza. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Guida completa all'arrampicata su roccia. C.Luebben. Editore: Hoepli, 2008
SITOGRAFIA
Reference material
Websites
-https://www.federclimb.it/
-http://ifsc-climbing.org
Assessment methods and Criteria
The final exam is composed of a practical assessment and a written part in which students demonstrate their ability to organize and manage a sports climb activity with schoolchildren safely. In detail, the practical part will include:
- Bouldering problem solution on an artificial structure at a difficulty graded to the student's ability by applying the different climbing techniques learned on the course
- Climb a lead route at a difficulty graded to the student's ability in a leading style, demonstrating the vertical climbing techniques learned on the course, managing safety and protection (clipping the rope through the anchors, relationship with the rope, relationship with the belayer)
- Evaluation of ability to ensure the safety of climbers that climb in leading and top-rope modalities
The written part is composed of multiple-choice and open questions on the practical and theoretical topics covered during the course. The evaluation is expressed as 30/30 points based on the grades obtained in the practical trials and the result of the written exam part.
- Bouldering problem solution on an artificial structure at a difficulty graded to the student's ability by applying the different climbing techniques learned on the course
- Climb a lead route at a difficulty graded to the student's ability in a leading style, demonstrating the vertical climbing techniques learned on the course, managing safety and protection (clipping the rope through the anchors, relationship with the rope, relationship with the belayer)
- Evaluation of ability to ensure the safety of climbers that climb in leading and top-rope modalities
The written part is composed of multiple-choice and open questions on the practical and theoretical topics covered during the course. The evaluation is expressed as 30/30 points based on the grades obtained in the practical trials and the result of the written exam part.
M-EDF/02 - SPORT SCIENCES AND METHODOLOGY - University credits: 6
Lessons: 42 hours
Professor:
Limonta Eloisa Maria Guglielmina
Educational website(s)
Professor(s)