Decorative Cosmetics Development
A.Y. 2024/2025
Learning objectives
The course is intended for students who have attended courses on ingredients and physiology/biochemistry of the skin/skin annexes and can be introduced to relevant application into decorative cosmetics. The course aims at providing the students with an overview on the main classes of decorative cosmetics. In this respect, great attention would be paid towards formulation development, manufacturing aspects and physio-technological properties of the resulting products, which may impact on their overall quality and on the user experience.
During the laboratory experiences, methodologies for the physico-technological characterization of the cosmetic ingredients and for evaluating the quality of final products will be provided. Moreover, students will approach small-scale manufacturing of selected decorative cosmetics.
During the laboratory experiences, methodologies for the physico-technological characterization of the cosmetic ingredients and for evaluating the quality of final products will be provided. Moreover, students will approach small-scale manufacturing of selected decorative cosmetics.
Expected learning outcomes
At the end of the course, students will have acquired the basis for the formulation of the main categories of make-up products (e.g. lipsticks, eye shadows, powders, base dyes, hair dyes), of the manufacturing processes they are involved and the challenges related to control, packaging and stability aspects. They will be able to understand the formulation role of each ingredient from the label of decorative cosmetics and hypothesizing the relevant production process.
Lesson period: Second semester
Assessment methods: Esame
Assessment result: voto verbalizzato in trentesimi
Single course
This course cannot be attended as a single course. Please check our list of single courses to find the ones available for enrolment.
Course syllabus and organization
Single session
Responsible
Lesson period
Second semester
Course syllabus
- Overview and market prevalence of the different categories of cosmetic products and the relevant types of formulations
- Powder in cosmetics: definition and properties. Bulk properties.
-Powder manipulation: particle size reduction (comminuiton) of individual particles, size enlargement/extrusion, dissolution, mixing or dispersion within powders or other materials (liquids, melts, semisolids, ), fluid bed coating
-Loading of functional ingredients into decorative cosmetics
-Introduction to color cosmetics and color theory; use of pigments in cosmetic formulations and relevant evaluation methods (i.e. color measurement and pigment testing)
- Formulation, manufacturing, critical analysis, evaluation of quality and performance of decorative cosmetics:
-powder and compacts (e.g. foundation, eyeshadow, blush, face powder)
-extrudates (e.g. eyeshadow)
-poured products (e.g. foundation, chapstick, lipstick)
-emulsions (e.g. lip gloss, mascara, foundation, eyeliner)
-pencils
-nail polishes
Laboratory experiences - Preparation of selected cosmetic products (e.g. primer, lipgloss, face/eye powder, chapstick, lipstick, foundation, mascara) and relevant characterization. Visit to industries.
- Powder in cosmetics: definition and properties. Bulk properties.
-Powder manipulation: particle size reduction (comminuiton) of individual particles, size enlargement/extrusion, dissolution, mixing or dispersion within powders or other materials (liquids, melts, semisolids, ), fluid bed coating
-Loading of functional ingredients into decorative cosmetics
-Introduction to color cosmetics and color theory; use of pigments in cosmetic formulations and relevant evaluation methods (i.e. color measurement and pigment testing)
- Formulation, manufacturing, critical analysis, evaluation of quality and performance of decorative cosmetics:
-powder and compacts (e.g. foundation, eyeshadow, blush, face powder)
-extrudates (e.g. eyeshadow)
-poured products (e.g. foundation, chapstick, lipstick)
-emulsions (e.g. lip gloss, mascara, foundation, eyeliner)
-pencils
-nail polishes
Laboratory experiences - Preparation of selected cosmetic products (e.g. primer, lipgloss, face/eye powder, chapstick, lipstick, foundation, mascara) and relevant characterization. Visit to industries.
Prerequisites for admission
In order to depply acquire the contents of the course and to apply them critically, basic knowledge of organic and inorganic chemistry, and of the ingredients of cosmetic products is required. Moreover, a background on the physiology as well as biochemistry of skin/ skin annexes and the main membranes on which cosmetic products are intended to be applied would be highly beneficial.
In order to undertake the laboratory experiences profitably and safely, a basic ability and knowledge of the risks associated with handling chemicals is required. Therefore, attendance of the laboratory experiences related to the scheduled courses in the first semester represents a prerequisite for admission to experimental activity.
In order to undertake the laboratory experiences profitably and safely, a basic ability and knowledge of the risks associated with handling chemicals is required. Therefore, attendance of the laboratory experiences related to the scheduled courses in the first semester represents a prerequisite for admission to experimental activity.
Teaching methods
Lectures (mainly in presence) with the support of slides as well as digital instruments; group and in-depth activities, also in asynchronous online mode, on yearly projects inspired by different themes. Seminars given by experts in the field to bring students closer to the reality of work/production.
Individual laboratory experiences, entailing the guided activity of evaluating and commenting on commercial product labels.
Individual laboratory experiences, entailing the guided activity of evaluating and commenting on commercial product labels.
Teaching Resources
Lesson slides and suggested reference textbooks available in the online library.
Recent bibliographic material provided by the lecturer or found by the students through databases.
Recent bibliographic material provided by the lecturer or found by the students through databases.
Assessment methods and Criteria
Understanding/learning of the topics taught during the course will be assessed through a final written test entailing both closed- and open-ended questions on different topics. More into details: 6/12 closed questions relevant to the topics included in the GENERAL Section (My Ariel): max 10 points; 1 open-ended question relevant to the topics included in the Systematic Section (My Ariel): max 10 points; 3 open-ended question relevant to the laboratory activities: max 10 points.
An oral interview may also be necessary to clarify the contents of the written tests and to help improve the final grade.
A handout will be produced and corrected during the laboratory activities in which to complete/comment formulas and answer questions and which will be useful material for deepening the study.
An oral interview may also be necessary to clarify the contents of the written tests and to help improve the final grade.
A handout will be produced and corrected during the laboratory activities in which to complete/comment formulas and answer questions and which will be useful material for deepening the study.
CHIM/09 - PHARMACEUTICAL AND TECHNOLOGICAL APPLICATIONS OF CHEMISTRY - University credits: 6
Single bench laboratory practical: 32 hours
Lessons: 32 hours
Lessons: 32 hours
Professors:
Melocchi Alice, Zema Lucia
Educational website(s)
Professor(s)