Decorative Cosmetics Development
A.Y. 2026/2027
Learning objectives
The course is intended for students who have attended courses on ingredients and physiology/biochemistry of the skin/skin annexes and can be introduced to relevant application into decorative cosmetics. The course aims at providing the students with an overview on the main classes of decorative cosmetics. In this respect, great attention would be paid towards formulation development, manufacturing aspects and physio-technological properties of the resulting products, which may impact on their overall quality and on the user experience.
During the laboratory experiences, methodologies for the physico-technological characterization of the cosmetic ingredients and for evaluating the quality of final products will be provided. Moreover, students will approach small-scale manufacturing of selected decorative cosmetics.
During the laboratory experiences, methodologies for the physico-technological characterization of the cosmetic ingredients and for evaluating the quality of final products will be provided. Moreover, students will approach small-scale manufacturing of selected decorative cosmetics.
Expected learning outcomes
At the end of the course, students will have acquired the basis for the formulation of the main categories of make-up products (e.g. lipsticks, eye shadows, powders, base dyes, hair dyes), of the manufacturing processes they are involved and the challenges related to control, packaging and stability aspects. They will be able to understand the formulation role of each ingredient from the label of decorative cosmetics and hypothesizing the relevant production process.
Lesson period: Second semester
Assessment methods: Esame
Assessment result: voto verbalizzato in trentesimi
Single course
This course cannot be attended as a single course. Please check our list of single courses to find the ones available for enrolment.
Course syllabus and organization
Single session
Responsible
Lesson period
Second semester
Course syllabus
- Overview and market prevalence of the different categories of decorative cosmetic products and the relevant types of formulations.
- Powder in cosmetics: definition and properties. Bulk properties.
- Powder manipulation: particle size reduction (comminuiton) of individual particles, size enlargement/extrusion, dissolution, mixing or dispersion within powders or other materials (liquids, melts, semisolids, ), fluid bed coating.
-Loading of functional ingredients into decorative cosmetics.
-Introduction to color cosmetics and color theory; use of pigments in cosmetic formulations and relevant evaluation methods (i.e. color measurement and pigment testing).
- Formulation, manufacturing, critical analysis, evaluation of quality and performance of decorative cosmetics:
-powder and compacts (e.g. foundation, eyeshadow, blush, face powder);
-extrudates (e.g. eyeshadow);
-poured products (e.g. foundation, chapstick, lipstick);
-emulsions (e.g. lip gloss, mascara, foundation, eyeliner);
-pencils;
-nail polishes.
Laboratory experiences - Preparation of selected cosmetic products (e.g. primer, lipgloss, face/eye powder, chapstick, lipstick, foundation, mascara) and relevant characterization. Visit to industries.
- Powder in cosmetics: definition and properties. Bulk properties.
- Powder manipulation: particle size reduction (comminuiton) of individual particles, size enlargement/extrusion, dissolution, mixing or dispersion within powders or other materials (liquids, melts, semisolids, ), fluid bed coating.
-Loading of functional ingredients into decorative cosmetics.
-Introduction to color cosmetics and color theory; use of pigments in cosmetic formulations and relevant evaluation methods (i.e. color measurement and pigment testing).
- Formulation, manufacturing, critical analysis, evaluation of quality and performance of decorative cosmetics:
-powder and compacts (e.g. foundation, eyeshadow, blush, face powder);
-extrudates (e.g. eyeshadow);
-poured products (e.g. foundation, chapstick, lipstick);
-emulsions (e.g. lip gloss, mascara, foundation, eyeliner);
-pencils;
-nail polishes.
Laboratory experiences - Preparation of selected cosmetic products (e.g. primer, lipgloss, face/eye powder, chapstick, lipstick, foundation, mascara) and relevant characterization. Visit to industries.
Prerequisites for admission
In order to effectively acquire the contents of the course and to apply them critically, basic knowledge of organic and inorganic chemistry, and of the ingredients of cosmetic products is required. Moreover, a background on the physiology as well as biochemistry of skin/ skin annexes and the main membranes on which cosmetic products are intended to be applied would be highly beneficial.
In order to undertake the laboratory experiences profitably and safely, a basic ability and knowledge of the risks associated with handling chemicals is required. Therefore, attendance of the laboratory experiences related to the courses scheduled in the first semester represents a prerequisite for admission to experimental activities.
In order to undertake the laboratory experiences profitably and safely, a basic ability and knowledge of the risks associated with handling chemicals is required. Therefore, attendance of the laboratory experiences related to the courses scheduled in the first semester represents a prerequisite for admission to experimental activities.
Teaching methods
Lectures (primarily delivered in person) are supported by slides and digital tools. In-depth group activities are mainly carried out during laboratory sessions, often within annual projects inspired by different themes.
Seminars led by industry experts—mainly from the cosmetics sector—are offered to bring students closer to real-world production and professional environments. Depending on availability, visits to make-up laboratories and manufacturing companies may also be organized.
Students also engage in individual laboratory work, which includes the guided preparation and characterisation of make-up products (e.g. mascara, gloss, lipstick, foundations, sun protection sticks, powder and cream eyeshadows), as well as the evaluation and critical analysis of commercial product labels.
Seminars led by industry experts—mainly from the cosmetics sector—are offered to bring students closer to real-world production and professional environments. Depending on availability, visits to make-up laboratories and manufacturing companies may also be organized.
Students also engage in individual laboratory work, which includes the guided preparation and characterisation of make-up products (e.g. mascara, gloss, lipstick, foundations, sun protection sticks, powder and cream eyeshadows), as well as the evaluation and critical analysis of commercial product labels.
Teaching Resources
Lesson slides and suggested reference textbooks available in the online library.
Recent bibliographic material provided by the lecturer or found by the students through databases.
Recent bibliographic material provided by the lecturer or found by the students through databases.
Assessment methods and Criteria
The understanding of the topics covered during the course, as well as the skills acquired, will be assessed through:
- a final written exam consisting of both closed- and open-ended questions. More specifically, the exam includes: 6-12 closed questions related to the topics covered in the General Section (MyAriel) (maximum 10 points); 1 open-ended question on topics from the Systematic Section (MyAriel) (maximum 10 points); and 3 open-ended questions related to laboratory activities (maximum 10 points);
- group activities, short creative projects, in-depth explorations of laboratory work, and sensory evaluation sessions, which allow students to earn extra points (up to a maximum of 2) to improve their final grade or achieve honors.
A handout will be distributed and reviewed during laboratory sessions. It will include spaces to complete and comment on formulas, as well as questions to be answered, serving as useful material for further study and review.
- a final written exam consisting of both closed- and open-ended questions. More specifically, the exam includes: 6-12 closed questions related to the topics covered in the General Section (MyAriel) (maximum 10 points); 1 open-ended question on topics from the Systematic Section (MyAriel) (maximum 10 points); and 3 open-ended questions related to laboratory activities (maximum 10 points);
- group activities, short creative projects, in-depth explorations of laboratory work, and sensory evaluation sessions, which allow students to earn extra points (up to a maximum of 2) to improve their final grade or achieve honors.
A handout will be distributed and reviewed during laboratory sessions. It will include spaces to complete and comment on formulas, as well as questions to be answered, serving as useful material for further study and review.
CHEM-08/A - Technology, Socioeconomics and Regulation of Medicinal and Health and Wellbeing Products - University credits: 6
Tutorials: 32 hours
Lessons: 32 hours
Lessons: 32 hours
Professors:
Melocchi Alice, Zema Lucia
Professor(s)