History and Documentation of Fashion

A.Y. 2020/2021
9
Max ECTS
60
Overall hours
SSD
M-STO/04
Language
Italian
Learning objectives
The course aims to offer the basic features of a history of fashion and textiles from the 18th century to the present day. The theme will be addressed by highlighting the moments when the most important changes have occurred in the ways of dressing, in fashion production, in fashion consumption and in its communication, deepening each of the cultural, social, technological and economic reasons. Regarding textiles, the course focuses on how technical-scientific discoveries and political events have influenced this production sector. The transition from court fashion to bourgeois fashion with its symbolism, the birth of haute couture, the origins of the modern way of dressing ,the diffusion of manufactured clothing and the relationships between high fashion and ordinary clothing, the prêt-à-porter of designers, today's relationship between mass market and elite brands, and how many of these historical moments has led to developments and progress in textiles.
Expected learning outcomes
During the course the students will acquire: an effective ability to understand the historical development of the modern fashion industry; an in-depth knowledge of the historical development of textile production;
skills in recognizing the simplest types of textiles applied to fashion and the ability to place within an historical context the main decorative motifs of the fabrics; proper use of the technical terminology of the discipline.
Single course

This course cannot be attended as a single course. Please check our list of single courses to find the ones available for enrolment.

Course syllabus and organization

Single session

Lesson period
First semester
Lessons will take place face to face in the classroom or remotely electronically (frontal lessons in sync on the Microsoft Teams platform) compatibly with the health situation existing at the time of the course.

For the September 2020 Session, the final exam will consist of an oral exam electronically on the Microsoft Teams platform.

Information relating to teaching, notices and updates will be published in advance on the Ariel website.
Course syllabus
History and Research of Fashion (60 h., 9 cfu)

Unit A: 20 h., 3 cfu
The genesis of the contemporary fashion system between the 19th and 20th centuries

The aim of the unit is to offer basic knowledge of phenomena such as the birth of haute couture and modern mass production and the development of new fashion distribution systems.
Prof.ssa Enrica Morini

Unit B: 10 h., 1,5 cfu
The creators of new fashions

The unit is focused on the importance and social and cultural significance of creation in fashion innovation. Some emblematic designers (Worth, Poiret, Dior, Armani), designer artists such as Fortuny, but also street fashion will be analyzed.
Prof.ssa Enrica Morini

Unit B: 10 h., 1,5 cfu
Know the textile production to understand fashion

The aim of the unit is to enable students to recognize the different types of textured and printed textiles relating to fashion and the terminology of the sector, making them understand how studying the fabrics of the past is essential to understand the evolution of contemporary textiles.
Prof.ssa Margherita Rosina

Unit C: 20 h., 3 cfu
From the origins of Made in Italy to the global market

The aim of the unit is to make known the way that led the Italian textile to disengage from the French supremacy of the previous centuries to assert itself autonomously worldwide, and to understand how the national textile production was and still is decisive for the success of Made in Italy fashion.
Prof.ssa Margherita Rosina
Prerequisites for admission
No prerequisite is required.
Teaching methods
The course includes frontal lessons, with the support of supplementary teaching materials (explanatory contents and iconographic documentation) made available on Ariel website.
Visits to museums and exhibitions are planned.

Attendance of the course is strongly recommended. Students attending at least two thirds of the lessons will be considered attending students.
Teaching Resources
FOR ATTENDING STUDENTS:

Unit A (20 h., 3 cfu) and B (10 h., 1,5 cfu)

- Knowledge of the topics covered during the course (slides of the lessons with explanatory contents and iconographic documentation available on Ariel website);
- Enrica Morini, Storia della moda dal XVIII al XXI secolo, Milano, Skira, 2010.

Unit B (10 h., 1,5 cfu) and C (20 h., 3 cfu)

- Knowledge of the topics covered during the course (slides of the lessons with explanatory contents and iconographic documentation available on Ariel website);
- Margherita Rosina (a cura di), Storia del tessuto moderno e contemporaneo (available on Ariel website, in the section "Materiali didattici").


For further details, the following readings are recommended:

Unit A and B

- Mariano Fortuny, un Espagnol à Venise, catalogo della mostra, Palais Galliera du 4 octobre 2017 au 7 janvier 2018, Paris Musées, Paris 2017;
- The House of Worth: 1858-1954: The Birth of Haute Couture, London, Thames & Hudson, 2018;
- Kathy Phillips, Giorgio Armani, Bologna, Atlante, 2016.

Unit B and C

- Kassia St Clair, La trama del mondo. I tessuti che hanno fatto la storia, Utet, 2019.



FOR NOT ATTENDING STUDENTS:

Unit A (20 h., 3 cfu) and B (10 h., 1,5 cfu)

- Enrica Morini, Storia della moda dal XVIII al XXI secolo, Milano, Skira, 2010;
- Andrea Merlotti, I percorsi della moda made in Italy, Treccani, Il Contributo italiano alla storia del Pensiero - Tecnica, 2013 (http://www.treccani.it/enciclopedia/i-percorsi-della-moda-made-in-italy_%28Il-Contributo-italiano-alla-storia-del-Pensiero:-Tecnica%29/).

Unit B (10 h., 1,5 cfu) and C (20 h., 3 cfu)

- Knowledge of teaching materials (explanatory contents and iconographic documentation) available on course's Ariel website;
- Margherita Rosina (a cura di), Storia del tessuto moderno e contemporaneo (available on Ariel website, in the section "Materiali didattici").


For further details, the following readings are recommended:

Unit A and B

- Mariano Fortuny, un Espagnol à Venise, catalogo della mostra, Palais Galliera du 4 octobre 2017 au 7 janvier 2018, Paris Musées, Paris 2017;
- The House of Worth: 1858-1954: The Birth of Haute Couture, London, Thames & Hudson, 2018;
- Kathy Phillips, Giorgio Armani, Bologna, Atlante, 2016.

Unit B and C

- Kassia St Clair, La trama del mondo. I tessuti che hanno fatto la storia, Utet, 2019.
Assessment methods and Criteria
Written test + oral examination:
the final exam consists of a written exam with open questions, followed by an optional oral exam at the request of the student (the student must first register through Sifa both at the written exam session and at the oral exam session).

The final exam is aimed at verifying the degree of understanding and knowledge of the course's topics and the logical-argumentative skills acquired: knowledge of the historical development of the contemporary fashion industry and textile production; skills in recognizing the simplest types of textile applied to fashion and the capacity for historical contextualization of the main decorative motifs of fabrics; an appropriate use of the technical terminology of the discipline.

The vote will be expressed in thirtieths.

Warning
The course is aimed at students of Degree course in "Editoria, culture della comunicazione e della moda".

National and international students or Erasmus incoming are invited to make timely contact with the course professor.
The examination procedures for students with disabilities and/or with DSA must be agreed with the teacher, in agreement with the competent Office.
Unita' didattica A
M-STO/04 - CONTEMPORARY HISTORY - University credits: 3
Lessons: 20 hours
Professor: Morini Enrica
Unita' didattica B
M-STO/04 - CONTEMPORARY HISTORY - University credits: 3
Lessons: 20 hours
Professors: Morini Enrica, Rosina Margherita
Unita' didattica C
M-STO/04 - CONTEMPORARY HISTORY - University credits: 3
Lessons: 20 hours
Professor: Rosina Margherita