Sport climbing

A.Y. 2020/2021
6
Max ECTS
42
Overall hours
SSD
M-EDF/02
Language
Italian
Learning objectives
The course provides a theoretical-practical approach to the different types of sports climbing (lead, bouldering, speed) and preparation for certification as school climbing instructor to facilitate climbing experiences, instruct climbing skills, and/or monitor climbing activities in accordance with MIUR-FASI guidelines. The technical, physiological, and didactic components, norms, and procedures specific to each type of sports climbing for climbing in safety are covered.
Expected learning outcomes
Students will acquire skills in observation and interpretation of techniques specific to each type of climbing; ability to execute and demonstrate techniques; ability to organize preparatory lessons for learning basic skills for beginners; knowledge of regulations and safety issues.
Course syllabus and organization

Single session

Lesson period
year
TEACHING METHODS
Depending on the context, students will attend practical lessons in presence, in compliance with COVID-19 safety regulations. The details of which will be provided to students before the beginning of the lessons, as well as any documents and updates related to the Covid-19 pandemic guidelines.
Asynchronous short-lessons (video-lessons or PowerPoint recording with audio) as well as additional documents will be made available at the Arial website.
If lessons in presence are totally prevented, they will be held on Microsoft Teams platform both in synchronous form following the official timetable, and in asynchronous form leaving the teaching materials (video-lessons or PowerPoint recording with audio or additional documents) on the same platform available to students.

COURSE SYLLABUS and TEACHING RESOURCES
The program and the teaching resources will not change.

ASSESSMENT METHOD and EVALUATION CRITERIA
If practical lessons will take place, the exam will be carried out in presence in compliance with the COVID-19 safety regulations and will include practical evaluations and written test. Otherwise, the exam will take place remotely in the form of an oral interview carried out via the Microsoft Teams platform. The instruction for the interview and the evaluation criteria will be communicated in time to the students.
It should be noted that the achievement of the Climbing School Operator license is subject to the performance of practical lessons and the final practical evaluation.
Course syllabus
Introduction
- Italian Climbing Federation (Federazione Arrampicata Sportiva Italiana, FASI): structure and mission
- School climbing operator: skills areas and competence
- Disciplines of sport climbing (lead, bouldering, speed)
- Theoretical aspects
. Historical overview: from exploratory alpinism to the beginning of sports climbing
. Definition of the performance model for sports climbing: physiological aspects
. Elements of training and general/specific physical preparation for sports climbing
. Accident and injury prevention
- Practical aspects
. Large and small gear: move from the horizontal to the vertical plane. Exercises, translocations, games with the gear normally available in school gyms
. Basic motor patterns of climbing. Didactics of the fundamental aspects: frontal positions, variants on the frontal positions, lateral positions, dynamic movements
. Structures, equipment and gear. Aspects of safety and management of different forms of climbing (lead and top-rope)
. Bouldering: techniques of movement and training aspects
. Lead climber: techniques as lead and top-rope climbing and training aspects
. Speed: techniques of speed climbing and training aspects
Prerequisites for admission
No previous knowledge or experience necessary
Teaching methods
The course is given via frontal lectures and practical exercise sessions. During the exercises, students will practice exercises graded to their ability.
Teaching Resources
- Lecture notes, documents and materials provided by the teacher
- Dall'arrampicare all'arrampicata. N.Bressa, B.Capretta, G.P. Denicu.Editore: Calzetti Mariucci, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.1: Arrampicata e allenamento. Capacità organiche di base. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.2: Arrampicata e allenamento. Preparazione fisica e psicologica. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2010
- Manuale di Arrampicata. Vol.3: Tecniche e sicurezza. Autori vari. Editore: CAI, 2009
- Guida completa all'arrampicata su roccia. C.Luebben. Editore: Hoepli, 2008
SITOGRAFIA
Reference material
Websites
-https://www.federclimb.it/
-http://ifsc-climbing.org
Assessment methods and Criteria
The final exam is composed of a practical assessment and a written part in which students demonstrate their ability to organize and manage a sports climb activity with schoolchildren safely. In detail, the practical part will include:
- Bouldering problem solution on an artificial structure at a difficulty graded to the student's ability by applying the different climbing techniques learned on the course
- Climb a lead route at a difficulty graded to the student's ability in a leading style, demonstrating the vertical climbing techniques learned on the course, managing safety and protection (clipping the rope through the anchors, relationship with the rope, relationship with the belayer)
- Evaluation of ability to ensure the safety of a climbers that climb in leading and top-rope modality
The written part is composed of multiple-choice and open questions on the practical and theoretical topics covered during the course. The evaluation is expressed as 30/30 points based on the grades obtained in the practical trials and the result of the written exam part.
M-EDF/02 - SPORT SCIENCES AND METHODOLOGY - University credits: 6
Lessons: 42 hours

EDIZIONE 2

Lesson period
Second semester
M-EDF/02 - SPORT SCIENCES AND METHODOLOGY - University credits: 6
Lessons: 42 hours
Educational website(s)