History and Documentation of Fashion

A.Y. 2023/2024
9
Max ECTS
60
Overall hours
SSD
M-STO/04
Language
Italian
Learning objectives
The course aims to develop students' awareness of the changes that have occurred over time both in the way they dress and in the type of fabrics used for this purpose.
The course intends to offer the basic features of the history of fashion and textiles from the 18th century to today. The theme will be addressed by highlighting the moments in which the most important changes occurred in the ways of dressing, in the production of fashion, in the consumption of fashion and in its communication, deepening each person's cultural, social, technological and economic reasons; as far as fabrics are concerned, how technical-scientific discoveries and political events have influenced this production sector.
The spread and creation of brands in the twentieth century redefined the concept of fashion. Retracing the evolution of fashion from the bourgeois interpretation to that of streetwear, particular attention will be given to contemporary with the corporate and financial developments of large groups, and the consolidation and communication of the brand identity. Communication, advertising, fashion shows enter the spectacularization process bringing a new vision and interpretation of fashion.
Expected learning outcomes
During the course the students will acquire: an effective ability to understand the historical development of the modern fashion industry; an in-depth knowledge of the historical development of textile production;
skills in recognizing the simplest types of textiles applied to fashion and the ability to place within an historical context the main decorative motifs of the fabrics; proper use of the technical terminology of the discipline.
Single course

This course can be attended as a single course.

Course syllabus and organization

Single session

Lesson period
First semester
Course syllabus
History and Documentation of Fashion (60 hours, 9 cfu)

Module A: 10 hours, 1.5 cfu
Conoscere il tessuto per capire e raccontare la moda (Getting to know fabrics for a better understanding and storytelling of fashion)

The module covers the different types of fabric and the relevant terminology: students will become familiar with the differences between various textile decoration techniques, as well as the main decorative patterns that characterise the "style" of contemporary fabrics, with an overview of current and returning trends. Samples will also be used to examine these types of fabric.
Prof. Francina Chiara

Module B: 20 hours, 3 cfu
Dalla supremazia francese al successo del Made in Italy (From the French dominance of fashion to the success of the "Made in Italy")

Through the study of sources of different nature (paintings, literary texts, journals, documents connected to the production process, films, etc.), the module covers the evolution of clothing - with a focus on fabrics - from the 18th century to present times. Some major turning points in the history of European fashion will be analysed in depth: from the dominance and excellence of French fabrics in the 18th century to the rise of Italian fashion in the 20th century, with an excursus on the changes in production models, products and manufacturing geographies in the 19th century; from craftsmanship to the acceleration of technological innovation and its impact on products; from artisans to industrial designers and the role of art and artists in shaping the evolution of the textile industry.
Prof. Francina Chiara

Module C: 10 hours, 1.5 cfu
La nascita contemporanea dei brand e le strategie di comunicazione (The simultaneous rise of brands and communication strategies)

The growing popularity of fashion apparel and the birth of brands in the 20th century have reshaped the idea of fashion. The module focuses on the corporate and financial developments of large fashion groups, and the strengthening and communication of brand identity in present times. Communication, advertising and runway shows have become part of the spectacularisation process, bringing about a new interpretation of fashion. Meetings with experts in the field will offer students a novel peek into this industry.
Prof. Mattia Alberto Bertocco

Module D: 20 hours, 3 cfu
Le origini del sistema moda e la sua contemporaneità (The origins of the fashion system and its contemporaneity)

The evolution of fashion in the last centuries allows to keep track of the social and cultural changes in our societies. The module analyses the meaning of clothing by unveiling the underlying mechanisms of artisan and industrial manufacturing on one hand, and symbolic and cultural production on the other.
Prof. Mattia Alberto Bertocco
Prerequisites for admission
There are no requirements, but knowledge of history and history of art from the 18th century to present times constitutes an advantage.
Teaching methods
The course is made up of lectures in class, with complementary learning materials (explanatory contents and pictures) available on the webpage of the course in the Ariel portal.
Course attendance is strongly recommended. Students are required to attend at least two thirds of the classes to be considered "attending".
Teaching Resources
EXAM SYLLABUS FOR ATTENDING STUDENTS

Module A (10 hours, 1.5 cfu) and module B (20 hours, 3 cfu)

Knowledge of the topics covered by the course (slides and pictures available on the webpage of the course in the Ariel portal);
- C. Buss, Seta, oro, argento. Le sete operate del XVIII secolo, Fabbri, Milano 1992;
- M. Rosina, La diffusione del tessuto stampato nell'abbigliamento maschile e femminile: da fenomeno d'élite a prodotto di massa" in Storia della moda (a cura di Ranieri Varese e Grazietta Butazzi), Bologna, 1995, pp.194-238;
- Seta. Il Novecento a Como, a cura di C. Buss, Cinisello Balsamo 2001;
- F. Chiara, Dal disegnatore aI designer per tessuti, in Carla Badiali disegnare il tessuto, catalogo mostra Fondazione Antonio Ratti, a cura di M. Rosina e F. Chiara, Como 2007, pp. 11-22.

Module C (10 hours, 1.5 cfu) and module D (20 hours, 3 cfu)

Knowledge of the topics covered by the course (slides and pictures available on the webpage of the course in the Ariel portal);
- Enrica Morini, Storia della moda dal XVIII al XXI secolo, Milano, Skira, 2010;
- Mattia Bertocco, Diesel. Jeans, Comunicazione e Cultura, Milano, FrancoAngeli, 2022.

EXAM SYLLABUS FOR NON-ATTENDING STUDENTS

Module A (10 hours, 1.5 cfu) and module B (20 hours, 3 cfu)

- C. Buss, Seta, oro, argento. Le sete operate del XVIII secolo, Fabbri, Milano 1992;
- M. Rosina, La diffusione del tessuto stampato nell'abbigliamento maschile e femminile: da fenomeno d'élite a prodotto di massa" in Storia della moda (a cura di Ranieri Varese e Grazietta Butazzi), Bologna, 1995, pp.194-238;
- Seta. Il Novecento a Como, a cura di C. Buss, Cinisello Balsamo 2001;
- F. Chiara, Dal disegnatore aI designer per tessuti, in Carla Badiali disegnare il tessuto, catalogo mostra Fondazione Antonio Ratti, a cura di M. Rosina e F. Chiara, Como 2007, pp. 11-22;
- Schede di catalogo in L'età dell'eleganza. Le Filande e Tessiture Costa nella Como degli anni Cinquanta, cat. della mostra a cura di M. Rosina e F. Chiara Como 2010;
- M. Rosina, Le stoffe di Rosanna, in Abiti da star. Rosanna Schiaffino e la moda, cat. della mostra a cura di E. Morini) Cinisello Balsamo 2018.

Module C (10 hours, 1.5 cfu) and module D (20 hours, 3 cfu)

- Enrica Morini, Storia della moda dal XVIII al XXI secolo, Milano, Skira, 2010;
- Mattia Bertocco, Diesel. Jeans, Comunicazione e Cultura, Milano, FrancoAngeli, 2022.

A book to be chosen between:
- Ted Polhemus, Pierfrancesco Pacoda, La rivolta dello stile, Padova, Alet Edizioni, 2009;
- Giorgio Riello, La moda. Una storia dal Medioevo a oggi, Roma-Bari, Editori Laterza, 2012;
- Elizabeth Wilson, Vestirsi di sogni. Moda e Modernità, Milano, FrancoAngeli, 2008.
Assessment methods and Criteria
The exam is oral and graded on a scale of thirty. Students should be familiar with the contents of the course and be able to critically analyse them at different levels, with a view to applying them to the analysis of a document of the fashion system, using the subject-specific terminology.
During the course, attending students will be asked to carry out an individual research aimed at identifying the historical, technical and material characteristics of a single item of clothing among those collected in museums, and to give a Power Point presentation of this research during the oral exam. This activity is not mandatory, but will be considered for the final mark of the exam. Further information will be provided in class.

Attention
International students and Erasmus+ incoming students are invited to contact the course lead instructor as soon as possible.
Exam procedures for students with SLDs and/or disabilities should be agreed with the professor and the relevant office.
M-STO/04 - CONTEMPORARY HISTORY - University credits: 9
Lessons: 60 hours