Functional Ingredients
A.Y. 2025/2026
Learning objectives
The aim of the course is to provide a detailed and critical description of functional ingredients, based on their effects on skin, hair, lips, mucosa and teeth. A detailed explanation of the molecular mechanisms underlying the functions will be provided. The course will also describe the in vitro tests used to evaluate the activities of the ingredients described.
In the laboratory, students will conduct chemical experiments to evaluate the functional activities of certain ingredients. Aim of the course is that students acquire knowledge and understand the structure-activity relationship of the ingredients as well as the chemical, physical and biological mechanisms through which they exert their functions. In vitro methods used to evaluate the ingredients' function will also be considered including cutting edge techniques such as OMICS and MS-imaging.
In the laboratory, students will conduct chemical experiments to evaluate the functional activities of certain ingredients. Aim of the course is that students acquire knowledge and understand the structure-activity relationship of the ingredients as well as the chemical, physical and biological mechanisms through which they exert their functions. In vitro methods used to evaluate the ingredients' function will also be considered including cutting edge techniques such as OMICS and MS-imaging.
Expected learning outcomes
On completion of the course, the student will have acquired the knowledge to select the functional ingredient according to the desired effect and will also have the knowledge to critically select ingredients from the producers. This basic knowledge will also be crucial for those who want to pursue the discovery of new functional ingredients in the future.
Lesson period: Second semester
Assessment methods: Esame
Assessment result: voto verbalizzato in trentesimi
Single course
This course cannot be attended as a single course. Please check our list of single courses to find the ones available for enrolment.
Course syllabus and organization
Single session
Responsible
Lesson period
Second semester
Course syllabus
Course Objective
The objective of this course is to provide a detailed and critical description of the main functional cosmetic ingredients. The chemical characteristics of each ingredient will be analyzed, together with the primary industrial methods for their preparation, synthesis, and purification. The course will also explore the chemical, physical, and biological mechanisms underlying their activity, with special focus on the structure-activity relationships.
Additionally, the main in vitro tests used for assessing the efficacy and functionality of the cosmetic ingredients under study will be presented.
1. Anti-Aging Ingredients
a. Molecular bases of intrinsic and photo induced aging.
b. Peptides of synthetic and natural origin, retinoids, antioxidants, enzyme inhibitors.
c. In vitro methods for assessing anti aging compounds (radical scavenging activity, metalloprotease inhibition, lipoperoxidation, cellular reporter models for Nrf2, OMIC studies).
2. Moisturizing Agents
a. Molecular bases of skin hydration.
b. Humectants, occlusives, and emollients.
c. Methods for determining TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) and skin hydration.
3. Sunscreens
a. Electromagnetic radiation and molecular absorption phenomena.
b. Photo induced damage.
c. Organic UV filters.
d. Inorganic UV filters.
e. Methods for determining the critical wavelength, SPF, and UVA PF.
4. Self Tanners, Tanning Accelerators, and Skin Lighteners
5. Proteins
a. Percutaneous absorption
b. Functional proteins, structural proteins, and protein hydrolysates.
6. Hair Care Ingredients
a. The chemistry of hair.
b. Hair colorants:
i. Temporary colorants
ii. Semi permanent colorants
iii. Demi permanent colorants
iv. Permanent colorants
v. Bleaching agents
c. Ingredients for perms and hair straightening.
d. Hair conditioning agents.
e. Functional ingredients for strengthening hair and promoting regrowth.
f. Ingredients for dandruff treatment.
7. Oral Care Ingredients
a. Saliva: composition and function.
b. Functional ingredients in toothpastes (abrasives, anti acids, remineralizing agents, whitening agents, anti plaque, anti tartar).
c. Cosmetic mouthwashes.
8. Ingredients for Acne Prone and Comedogenic Skin
9. Ingredients for Skin Alterations Due to Edematofibrosclerosis (Cellulite)
10. Plant Stem Cell Extracts
11. Probiotics, Prebiotics, and Postbiotics for Topical Use
Laboratory Course
The laboratory activities will allow students to explore various analytical approaches aimed at evaluating the properties and functional roles of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations. Specifically, these activities will include the quantification of active compounds, such as polyphenols and anthocyanins, the assessment of the antioxidant activity of plant extracts, the evaluation of enzyme inhibition by natural molecules, and the measurement of the sun protection factor (SPF) of UVA and UVB filters.
The objective of this course is to provide a detailed and critical description of the main functional cosmetic ingredients. The chemical characteristics of each ingredient will be analyzed, together with the primary industrial methods for their preparation, synthesis, and purification. The course will also explore the chemical, physical, and biological mechanisms underlying their activity, with special focus on the structure-activity relationships.
Additionally, the main in vitro tests used for assessing the efficacy and functionality of the cosmetic ingredients under study will be presented.
1. Anti-Aging Ingredients
a. Molecular bases of intrinsic and photo induced aging.
b. Peptides of synthetic and natural origin, retinoids, antioxidants, enzyme inhibitors.
c. In vitro methods for assessing anti aging compounds (radical scavenging activity, metalloprotease inhibition, lipoperoxidation, cellular reporter models for Nrf2, OMIC studies).
2. Moisturizing Agents
a. Molecular bases of skin hydration.
b. Humectants, occlusives, and emollients.
c. Methods for determining TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss) and skin hydration.
3. Sunscreens
a. Electromagnetic radiation and molecular absorption phenomena.
b. Photo induced damage.
c. Organic UV filters.
d. Inorganic UV filters.
e. Methods for determining the critical wavelength, SPF, and UVA PF.
4. Self Tanners, Tanning Accelerators, and Skin Lighteners
5. Proteins
a. Percutaneous absorption
b. Functional proteins, structural proteins, and protein hydrolysates.
6. Hair Care Ingredients
a. The chemistry of hair.
b. Hair colorants:
i. Temporary colorants
ii. Semi permanent colorants
iii. Demi permanent colorants
iv. Permanent colorants
v. Bleaching agents
c. Ingredients for perms and hair straightening.
d. Hair conditioning agents.
e. Functional ingredients for strengthening hair and promoting regrowth.
f. Ingredients for dandruff treatment.
7. Oral Care Ingredients
a. Saliva: composition and function.
b. Functional ingredients in toothpastes (abrasives, anti acids, remineralizing agents, whitening agents, anti plaque, anti tartar).
c. Cosmetic mouthwashes.
8. Ingredients for Acne Prone and Comedogenic Skin
9. Ingredients for Skin Alterations Due to Edematofibrosclerosis (Cellulite)
10. Plant Stem Cell Extracts
11. Probiotics, Prebiotics, and Postbiotics for Topical Use
Laboratory Course
The laboratory activities will allow students to explore various analytical approaches aimed at evaluating the properties and functional roles of ingredients used in cosmetic formulations. Specifically, these activities will include the quantification of active compounds, such as polyphenols and anthocyanins, the assessment of the antioxidant activity of plant extracts, the evaluation of enzyme inhibition by natural molecules, and the measurement of the sun protection factor (SPF) of UVA and UVB filters.
Prerequisites for admission
Knowledge of inorganic, organic, and polymeric ingredients, as well as the anatomy and physiology of the skin and skin annexes, is required.
Teaching methods
Traditional lessons supported by slides (available in Ariel). Additional teaching tools such as Wooclap, Padlet will be also employed. Individual laboratiry training.
Teaching Resources
Slides presented in class and a selection of scientific publications
Assessment methods and Criteria
The assessment of learning related to the lectures is evaluated using a grading scale out of thirty, with a minimum passing grade of 18/30.
The exam consists of a written test on the topics covered in class, with a series of open-ended questions totaling 30 points. The exam lasts approximately 120 minutes.
To take the exam, it is mandatory to register for the exam session via the University's online SIFA service. The result, expressed in thirtieths, is communicated to students at the end of the test.
There are 7 exam sessions scheduled per year.
The Laboratory unit does not include a formal exam, but attendance is certified only if the student has correctly completed all the required experimental activities. The overall assessment of the student's performance is based on both the practical work carried out in the laboratory and the submission of a report that critically discusses the results obtained during the experimental sessions.
The exam consists of a written test on the topics covered in class, with a series of open-ended questions totaling 30 points. The exam lasts approximately 120 minutes.
To take the exam, it is mandatory to register for the exam session via the University's online SIFA service. The result, expressed in thirtieths, is communicated to students at the end of the test.
There are 7 exam sessions scheduled per year.
The Laboratory unit does not include a formal exam, but attendance is certified only if the student has correctly completed all the required experimental activities. The overall assessment of the student's performance is based on both the practical work carried out in the laboratory and the submission of a report that critically discusses the results obtained during the experimental sessions.
CHIM/08 - PHARMACEUTICAL CHEMISTRY - University credits: 7
Single bench laboratory practical: 16 hours
Lessons: 48 hours
Lessons: 48 hours
Professor:
Aldini Giancarlo
Professor(s)