History and Documentation of Fashion
A.Y. 2026/2027
Learning objectives
The course aims to provide students with the necessary tools to develop a critical thought about the changes that have occurred in the Contemporary Fashion System, along with the processes and major social, economic, political, cultural, and identity transformations between the end of the eighteenth century and the early twenty-first century. In particular, understanding of the discipline will be supported by the comparisons between: fashion and production, market, consumption, communication, and globalisation; fashion and politics; fashion and show business, entertainment, cinema, and music; fashion and the construction of gender and identities, including biopolitical practices of disciplining the body, from the diffusion of the bust to the popularisation of cosmetic surgery. Further details will be provided on the Ariel platform.
Expected learning outcomes
At the end of the course, students will be familiar with the evolution of the Contemporary Fashion System in relation to the main social, economic, political, and cultural transformations of the period investigated. Therefore, students will be able to understand the complex dynamics related to these issues and to shape personal judgements on course topics, using a specific and correct lexicon, appropriate to the discipline. Students will also be able to read and critically reflect on the fashion historiographical works, and use the main research and source analysis tools. These specialised skills will be acquired through a continuous and direct lecturer led discussion, insofar as, during the lessons, the debate on the proposed sources will be not only a moment for collective critical reflection, but also a tool for methodological learning.
Lesson period: First semester
Assessment methods: Esame
Assessment result: voto verbalizzato in trentesimi
Single course
This course can be attended as a single course.
Course syllabus and organization
Single session
Responsible
Lesson period
First semester
Course syllabus
The course will be divided into six main parts:
(I) Introduction to the course.
The introductory lecture will familiarise students with the historical study of fashion as a cultural, social, and political phenomenon, presenting the main theoretical and methodological questions that will guide the course.
(II) From the court to the city: the emergence of contemporary fashion (1760-1910).
This section will analyse the transition from court dress to modern fashion, focusing on the emergence of contemporary consumption, the rise of the bourgeoisie, the redefinition of social and gender identities, and the structuring of the fashion system.
(III) A powerful process of massification: fashion between two world wars (1910-1945).
This section will examine the processes of modernisation and massification that characterised the first half of the twentieth century, exploring the relationship between fashion, consumption, urban cultures, women's emancipation, and totalitarian regimes.
(IV) Mass society and consumer society: fashion between affluence and industry (1945-1990).
This section will focus on the rise of consumer society and the transformation of fashion into one of the major contemporary cultural industries, addressing youth cultures, prêt-à-porter, postmodernism, and the globalisation of markets.
(V) A globalised and socialised world: fashion in the contemporary age (1990-2020).
This section will analyse the impact of globalisation, the digital revolution, and social media on the fashion system, with particular attention to global brands, fast fashion, sustainability, and new contemporary identities.
(VI) Conclusions.
The concluding lecture will provide an opportunity to revisit the main issues addressed throughout the course and to consider how the definition of fashion can change, expand, and become more complex in light of the tools acquired.
Seminar meetings with scholars and industry experts will also be organised as part of the series "Behind the Scenes: Professions, Practices, and Cultures of the Fashion System". Further details on the programme and the structure of individual lectures will be made available on the Ariel platform.
(I) Introduction to the course.
The introductory lecture will familiarise students with the historical study of fashion as a cultural, social, and political phenomenon, presenting the main theoretical and methodological questions that will guide the course.
(II) From the court to the city: the emergence of contemporary fashion (1760-1910).
This section will analyse the transition from court dress to modern fashion, focusing on the emergence of contemporary consumption, the rise of the bourgeoisie, the redefinition of social and gender identities, and the structuring of the fashion system.
(III) A powerful process of massification: fashion between two world wars (1910-1945).
This section will examine the processes of modernisation and massification that characterised the first half of the twentieth century, exploring the relationship between fashion, consumption, urban cultures, women's emancipation, and totalitarian regimes.
(IV) Mass society and consumer society: fashion between affluence and industry (1945-1990).
This section will focus on the rise of consumer society and the transformation of fashion into one of the major contemporary cultural industries, addressing youth cultures, prêt-à-porter, postmodernism, and the globalisation of markets.
(V) A globalised and socialised world: fashion in the contemporary age (1990-2020).
This section will analyse the impact of globalisation, the digital revolution, and social media on the fashion system, with particular attention to global brands, fast fashion, sustainability, and new contemporary identities.
(VI) Conclusions.
The concluding lecture will provide an opportunity to revisit the main issues addressed throughout the course and to consider how the definition of fashion can change, expand, and become more complex in light of the tools acquired.
Seminar meetings with scholars and industry experts will also be organised as part of the series "Behind the Scenes: Professions, Practices, and Cultures of the Fashion System". Further details on the programme and the structure of individual lectures will be made available on the Ariel platform.
Prerequisites for admission
There are no specific requirements. However, a good knowledge of the main events and of the main cultural trends, both national and international, related to the chronological context analysed, between the Belle Époque and the end of the twentieth century, is preferable.
Teaching methods
The course consists of 60 hours divided into 30 lectures, supported by slides and supplementary teaching materials, including explanatory content, primary sources, iconographic documentation, and case studies. Lectures will combine historical and theoretical frameworks with the analysis and discussion of sources, images, editorial products, and materials drawn from the fashion system, with the aim of developing students' critical and interpretative skills. Throughout the course, students will be strongly encouraged to engage in discussion with both the lecturer, fostering active participation and collective reflection on the topics addressed. Seminar sessions with guest scholars, professionals, and experts in the field may also be organised on specific topics.
For these reasons, although attendance is not compulsory, it is strongly recommended. Students who attend at least 80% of the lectures (25 out of 30) will be considered attending students.
Please note: given the high number of dissertations supervised by the lecturer, attendance of the course is considered a preferential requirement for students wishing to undertake their final dissertation in this subject area.
For these reasons, although attendance is not compulsory, it is strongly recommended. Students who attend at least 80% of the lectures (25 out of 30) will be considered attending students.
Please note: given the high number of dissertations supervised by the lecturer, attendance of the course is considered a preferential requirement for students wishing to undertake their final dissertation in this subject area.
Teaching Resources
ATTENDING STUDENTS
— Daniel James Cole, Nancy Deihl, "Storia della moda dal 1850 a oggi", Einaudi, Turin, 2016 (or the original edition: Daniel James Cole, Nancy Deihl, "The History of Modern Fashion from 1850", Laurence King Publishing, Credo Reference, London and Boston, 2020 [2015])
— Lecture notes.
NON-ATTENDING STUDENTS
— Daniel James Cole, Nancy Deihl, "Storia della moda dal 1850 a oggi", Einaudi, Turin, 2016 (or the original edition: Daniel James Cole, Nancy Deihl, "The History of Modern Fashion from 1850", Laurence King Publishing, Credo Reference, London and Boston, 2020 [2015])
— A course pack uploaded by the lecturer on the Ariel platform, consisting of a collection of in-depth essays on the main topics discussed during the academic year.
— A text to be discussed with an audio-PowerPoint. The book will be assigned by the lecturer during office hours; students shall contact the professor at least one month before the exam. Further details will be provided on the Ariel platform.
Suggested books and materials (optional):
Suggested books for specialised vocabulary and concepts:
— Sofia Gnoli, "L'alfabeto della moda", Carocci, Rome, 2019
— Valerie Steele (a cura di), "Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion", 3 vols, Charles Scribner's Sons, Farmington Hills, 2005
— Guido Vergani, Biba Merlo (a cura di), "Dizionario della moda", Baldini Castoldi Dalai, Milano, 2009
— Daniel James Cole, Nancy Deihl, "Storia della moda dal 1850 a oggi", Einaudi, Turin, 2016 (or the original edition: Daniel James Cole, Nancy Deihl, "The History of Modern Fashion from 1850", Laurence King Publishing, Credo Reference, London and Boston, 2020 [2015])
— Lecture notes.
NON-ATTENDING STUDENTS
— Daniel James Cole, Nancy Deihl, "Storia della moda dal 1850 a oggi", Einaudi, Turin, 2016 (or the original edition: Daniel James Cole, Nancy Deihl, "The History of Modern Fashion from 1850", Laurence King Publishing, Credo Reference, London and Boston, 2020 [2015])
— A course pack uploaded by the lecturer on the Ariel platform, consisting of a collection of in-depth essays on the main topics discussed during the academic year.
— A text to be discussed with an audio-PowerPoint. The book will be assigned by the lecturer during office hours; students shall contact the professor at least one month before the exam. Further details will be provided on the Ariel platform.
Suggested books and materials (optional):
Suggested books for specialised vocabulary and concepts:
— Sofia Gnoli, "L'alfabeto della moda", Carocci, Rome, 2019
— Valerie Steele (a cura di), "Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion", 3 vols, Charles Scribner's Sons, Farmington Hills, 2005
— Guido Vergani, Biba Merlo (a cura di), "Dizionario della moda", Baldini Castoldi Dalai, Milano, 2009
Assessment methods and Criteria
Method and type of examination
The final examination consists of an oral interview designed to assess the acquisition of the theoretical and methodological knowledge addressed during the course, as well as the student's ability to apply such knowledge critically and independently. For attending students, the oral examination will focus on the textbook and on the topics discussed during the lectures. For non-attending students, the examination consists of an oral interview based on the assigned readings (as indicated above), together with a short narrated PowerPoint presentation on a monograph assigned by the lecturer during office hours. Students must arrange an appointment with the lecturer at least one month before the examination session in order to receive the monograph assignment. The completed presentation must then be submitted to the lecturer no later than ten days before the examination date.
Evaluation Criteria
Assessment is graded on a 30-point scale and will take into account the student's ability to demonstrate a sound knowledge of the topics covered, to employ appropriately the concepts and methodological tools of the discipline, to critically analyse sources and case studies, to develop independent reflections on the issues addressed, and to present arguments clearly, rigorously, and effectively using appropriate disciplinary terminology.
Students with Disabilities and/or Specific Learning Disorders (SLD)
Examination arrangements for students with disabilities and/or Specific Learning Disorders (SLD) will be agreed with the instructor in accordance with University regulations and in collaboration with the relevant support services.
The final examination consists of an oral interview designed to assess the acquisition of the theoretical and methodological knowledge addressed during the course, as well as the student's ability to apply such knowledge critically and independently. For attending students, the oral examination will focus on the textbook and on the topics discussed during the lectures. For non-attending students, the examination consists of an oral interview based on the assigned readings (as indicated above), together with a short narrated PowerPoint presentation on a monograph assigned by the lecturer during office hours. Students must arrange an appointment with the lecturer at least one month before the examination session in order to receive the monograph assignment. The completed presentation must then be submitted to the lecturer no later than ten days before the examination date.
Evaluation Criteria
Assessment is graded on a 30-point scale and will take into account the student's ability to demonstrate a sound knowledge of the topics covered, to employ appropriately the concepts and methodological tools of the discipline, to critically analyse sources and case studies, to develop independent reflections on the issues addressed, and to present arguments clearly, rigorously, and effectively using appropriate disciplinary terminology.
Students with Disabilities and/or Specific Learning Disorders (SLD)
Examination arrangements for students with disabilities and/or Specific Learning Disorders (SLD) will be agreed with the instructor in accordance with University regulations and in collaboration with the relevant support services.
Modules or teaching units
Part A and B
M-STO/04 - CONTEMPORARY HISTORY - University credits: 6
Lessons: 40 hours
Part C
M-STO/04 - CONTEMPORARY HISTORY - University credits: 3
Lessons: 20 hours
Professor(s)
Reception:
Monday from 1:30 p.m. Students are invited to contact the professor via email to make an appointment.
Entrance B, 3° floor, room 3019 (A11) (see the link below)